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Archive for the ‘Runway Looks’ Category

  • Lanvin S/S 2009 Collection

Alber Elbaz elevated the theme of the classic college toga party to the realm of high fashion in his Spring collection for Lanvin, by taking the look of a messy twisted and tied sheet and reinventing it as perfectly draped, one shoulder dresses in colorful stain and chiffon fabric. Nothing in this collection was simple, yet nothing was over the top either. The draping of these pieces, along with ruching, ballooned sleeves and hourglass waists (similar to Calvin Klein’s abstract collection), as well as the contrasting colors decorated and updated ordinary styles like the little black dress.

  • Hermès S/S 2009 Collection

Originally, us trendy New York fashionistas thought cowboy hats and fringe belonged solely as a Halloween costume, or on our mid-west cousin Sally. However, the minute we saw veterans Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell walk down the cactus strewn runway in Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Wild West creations, we couldn’t help but fall in love. As only Hermès could achieve with this theme, there was nothing tacky or cliché about the collection. Models donning black cowboy hats and riding gloves, and dark aviators looked like chic bandits ready to rob a bank or win a shootout. Even in a delicate and revealing red gown, Naomi Campbell looked fierce enough to intimidate any tough wrangler. We were drooling over the fringed Birkin and signature Hermès suitcases in snakeskin and zebra prints that helped add a dose of Parisian chic to this wild rodeo show.

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jack mackenroth and becky newton

jack mackenroth and becky newton

We ran into one of our favorite people, the incredibly-talented Project Runway Season 4 contestant Jack Mackenroth during New York Fashion Week. He graciously agreed to field some of our most important fashion week-related questions!

FP: What collection just completely blew you away during NY fashion Week?
JM: I have to say my favorite collection was Christian Siriano. I was so proud of him I cried like a baby. He took his concepts to a whole new level. The construction was so complicated and gorgeous. He took the concept of puff sleeves and opened them up into strips of fabric. So fierce. Every look was absolutely amazing!

jack & rubin singer

jack & rubin singer

I also loved Rubin Singer and for men I thought John Crocco pulled out an amazing collection for Perry Ellis. He really pushed the aesthetic of the Perry Ellis brand and was much more fashion forward then I’ve ever seen. I loved the khaki fabric with the embroidered polka dots. I missed Diane Von Furstenberg and I was so bummed. I heart her!

FP: Was there a particular trend you saw that you loved?

JM: It seemed like the season of the paillette. I saw leaf shaped paillettes, clear paillettes, matte and shiny — all different shapes and sizes. I loved it.  I also think the trend of sheer and flowing fabrics is here to stay. It was everywhere. Also — harem pants. EWWWWWWW. They were everywhere. Not cute.

FP: Who was your favorite celebrity sighting?

jack, ana ruiz, and vanessa williams

jack, ana ruiz, and vanessa williams

JM: My absolute most favorite celeb sighting was at the Patricia Field fashion show! First of all it was a fabulous party atmosphere put on by MAO PR, and was full of drag queens and fashion superstars. I was in the front row sandwiched between Judith Light, Becki Newton, Ana Ruiz, and Vanessa Williams (all from Ugly Betty). They were so hilarious and nice.

FP: What was your favorite freebie?

JM: Ooooh–Perry Ellis gave out a fab bottle of cologne. I got an MP3 player at the Valentino party and a gorgeous watch at the opening of the Fossil store on 34th street.

FP: How did you “decompress” after fashion week? (I went out of town, even if it was just to Connecticut, for the weekend!)

JM: You know what? I didn’t get to at all. The next day I had to write a speech and powerpoint presentation for The US Conference on AIDS in Fort Lauderdale. I left 3 days after fashion week and just got back. Now I have to make a wedding dress out of 3000 white condoms for the Condom Couture fashion show for an Evening of Hope HIV benefit in San Francisco on October 15th.  Then I have to make a chocolate Wonder Woman costume with Zac Young, the pastry chef from Butter, for the Chocolate show on November 6th. Woo-hoo!!

FP: We heard that you and Kevin Christiana have something in the works – can you reveal a bit about it to us?

JM: Yes–It’s very exciting. We are co-hosts and co-designers on a new “re-design” show where we work with one female candidate each episode and we ambush her wardrobe and remake them into some fabulous creations. It’s a little bit Project Runway meets Queer Eye (with only one queer) and it has a really cute hook that makes it original… We also hope to rope in some of our favorite designers throughout the season.

FP: When you have your next show, who are the three people you would most definitely have in the front row?

JM: If I ever show at Bryant Park I would want my mom, Tim Gunn and Linda Evangelista sitting in the front row.

FP: And last, of all, we’d love for you to analyze three looks from New York Fashion week for us:

look #1) Herve Leger by Max Azria
JM: I am a child of the 80s and 90s and I loved the origianl Herve Leger and am digging the update. It takes a killer bod to wrap yourself in “ace bandages” but I love the shimmer and it would make a woman look gorge!

look #2) Alexandre Herchcovitch
JM: I thought this collection was very conceptual rather than wearable. I liked some of the prints and some of the great military details but I don’t think you will be seeing crotch ruffles on the streets anytime soon.

look #3) William Rast
JM: I really like this look by William Rast; I would wear the entire look. Denim seems to be moving away from the overdone back pocketing and dark wash, and back to the distressed look of the 80′s. I love the tee and the jacket.

A special thanks to Jack Mackenroth for sharing his thoughts and pictures with Fashion Pulse!

– Julia DiNardo

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John Galliano’s collection this season consisted mainly of tight bodice tops, and tiered and frilly skirts. The charmingly eccentric designer paid homage to the style of the 1980’s with crimped hair, leggings, and sheer skirts revealing leotards underneath. However, it was the arrival of orange, yellow, lime-green, and hot pink frocks that immediately cued the ‘Electric Slide’ to start playing in our heads, and lit up the runway almost as bright as the City of Lights itself! We were enthralled by a black gown that looked like it was made for Madonna, early in her career. The sheer-skirted dress was also embellished with a burst of sparkles to add a little extra oomph to the evening.

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For his Emporio Armani collection, Giorgio Armani easily achieved his signature sophisticated and elegant look by pairing his pristinely tailored blazers with slouchy pants, and business-like dresses with relaxed vests. Multi-stranded pearl necklaces for women, and the two-toned oxford shoes for men evoked a ritzy New York in the 1920’s feel, while the sheer leopard print pieces for women, and genie-like pants for men, finished the show with a more modern and West Coast style. Besides the chizzled male models, our favorite part of the show was a practically sheer, floor-length lavender dress emblazoned with glittering butterflies that brought sophistication into the wild life.

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Did Dolce and Gabbana kidnap models from their beds and then march their sleepy heads down the Milan runway? Leave it to the genius fashion minds at this renowned Italian fashion house to make the “rolled out of bed look,” chic — actually scratch that — couture! The design duo paired classic silk men’s pajama tops and bottoms with full and textured skirts and colorful blazers with poufy sleeves, and we even saw this new signature style as a bathing suit! We also were astonished with the multiple ways silk ribbons were used as accessories in the form of belts, bowties, and brooches. The collection concluded with pastel Cinderella gowns adorned with flowers that left us in the middle of a fairytale dreamland. When we wake up, we’ll be sure to snatch some pajamas out of our boyfriend’s closet, but we’re sure it won’t look nearly as cool as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s versions!

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This season Zac Posen featured the transformation of the good girl gone bad. He began his collection with a delicately pale pink dress on model Raquel Zimmerman, whose larger-than-life earrings and rocker chic hairstyle suggested this girl wasn’t all frills and glamour. The metamorphosis continued as models traded in dainty and pale lips for a decidedly metallic purple pout. Posen also started mixing in a few leopard prints, although the pieces still had an airy, demure look to them. Later, as the finale approached we were presented with bolder and darker pieces. Our favorite look was something we like to dub as “Elizabethan goth” — engaging the quintessential elements of female dressing with an ominous, dark dark mood, which made the usually pretty and innocent faced Lily Donaldson, give off a powerful “Don’t mess with me” vibe. Posen showed us that its possible to embrace our inner rebel while still donning a feminine chiffon dress!

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Oscar de la Renta, who is quite well-known for his elegant designs, lived up to his reputation with dress after dress being absolutely pristine and classic at New York fashion week. The Jackie O. sunglasses matched perfectly with the preppy prints, clean silhouettes, and a coral shaped necklace Our favorite piece was a 1950’s style red and pink floral frock with a tight bodice and flared skirt that in our opinion, stole the show. We think a leisurely stroll along the shoreline looking for seashells in this dress would be absolutely divine, n’est-ce pas? From belted one-piece swim suits to sweeping evening gowns, Oscar has got all of you Hampton and Cape Cod beach babes covered.

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With an almost completely stark white color palette that eventually delved into champagne, beige, and silver, Francisco Costa’s Calvin Klein collection let the shape of his garments do the talking this season. Shoulders harked back to a ‘80s padded aesthetic, and while some dresses were boxy, others looked as if they were simply draped sheets –- a pure ode to minimalism! Still, we felt the pieces were innovative and most definitely a work of modern art. It was refreshing to see a designer play with new proportions, instead of recycling old one, any easy move to do, considering the archive trove at Calvin Klein. We were most intrigued by a white cocktail dress whose straps looked they were carefully twisted into a 3-D triangle on one side, and a cube on the other.

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For her spring 2009 collection, Vera Wang infused subdued and sheer fabrics with simple cuts as a base for what looked like a fabulous ode to an arts and crafts project. Some of the filmy garments stood out simply through the color palette of orange, yellow, and lavender layers artistically draped underneath. However, what really made the collection a stunner were her embellishments, embroidery work, and chunky and colorful accessories – in particular necklaces, bags, and belts. Our favorite look was a neutral tone dress that was given a new life with a metallic mosaic-like embellishment carefully placed across the waist. Wang said her inspiration this season was French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, and through this discovery, we at Fashion Pulse easily pieced together the concept that her meticulous work truly embodies the execution of fashion as art.

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  • Cynthia Rowley

The minute the giant clock (used as the runway’s backdrop) started ticking and the models started walking, we immediately thought we had been transported to the year 2029, instead of simply next spring! The designer’s runway was dominated by futuristic, form-fitting dresses that suggested imaginative inspiration from an era we have yet to see. Her use of graphic shapes, metallic fabrics, and big black sunglasses all contributed to the collection’s forward-thinking theme. We loved the gold belts that looked like over-sized bracelets; we just hope that they’re lighter around the waist than they appear!

  • Baby Phat

We’ll forgive Kimora Lee Simmons for starting the Baby Phat show an hour late for two reasons; the first being that we anticipated this to happen, and her pre-show party was the most fun we’ve practically had at a show this week! The pink cocktails and Cold Stone Creamery sundaes served in a room with a sparkly white rug were as “phabulous” as Kimora herself! The show commemorated ten years of Phat Fashions, so off the bat we knew we would be bestowed with a whammy of strong looks. On the runway, we saw colorful and flowing sheer pieces that were definitely 1970’s inspired, with lilac and khaki as dominant colors. The looks were completed by headscarves and hairstyles highly reminiscent of Cher (in her Sonny days).

–Sarah Ferguson

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Even though we had to subject ourselves (and our favorite shoes) to utterly drenching rain and ankle-deep puddles Saturday, these four designers were able to lift our dampened spirits!

  • Karen Walker

Although outside it was a downpour, Karen Walker’s collection made us feel like we were spending a sunny day on the west coast! The blues and taupes Walker used reminded us of a sandy California beach. The laid back, Cali-cool style that looked like it could have been taken from your boyfriend’s closet, was accented by her popular, quirky sunglasses, straw hats, and Keds. Yet, towards the end of the show, we were presented with leopard prints that added more femininity and a twist to our favorite Aussie’s collection.

  • James Coviello

The grey skies and painful, cab-less trek over to the west side was immediately forgotten once the show started. The runway was in full bloom with Coviello’s vibrant color choices of lime green, aqua, and lilac. These bold hues were brilliantly incorporated into the collection to create, in the designer’s own words, a “kaleidoscope of color.” Our favorite pieces were his flowing and seemingly weightless dresses that had a spin-art, tie-dye aesthetic to them. Although this collection was a strong departure from his signature knits of yore, we’re glad to adapt!

  • Verrier

Ashleigh Verrier’s spring/summer ’09 collection played off of a fairy tale motif, and the juxtaposition of sweetness and darkness. She didn’t get too carried away in the idea of fantasy, since these clothes had all of the right wearable ingredients — lace, ribbons, frill, and pastel colors. We simply adored the silky blouses, full ruffled-shirts, and girlish day dresses that added a lightness to the season.

  • Harlan Bel

To give radiance to an otherwise black and white palette, Harlan Bel added splashes of the same green, blue, and purple hues that we saw at Coviello. We loved how she contrasted feminine colors with suspenders, vests, leather jackets, fedoras, and glasses that would make anyone with perfect vision jealous! While there were no prints, she spiced up the solid pieces with details like cutouts, pleating, and tiered shorts.

– Sarah Ferguson

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We know we know — we’re a little behind with the fashion week coverage!

We’ll make it up to you right now, with several reviews from today, since hardly anyone has posted anything about them yet!

  • Ports 1961

We loved the live music, compliments of the Cowboy Junkies during the show, which lent nicely to the collection theme of the Pacific Northwest and feminine lines that compliment and lengthen. We found a bolder (both in design andcolore palette) collection than in the past with Ports, although we preferred metallic trim to all over metallic shimmer and shine. The fabrications we loved were the meshy lace dresses, tulle, jaquard, and lame’, which traditionally would have worked more for f/w collections. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the artistic “runway frou” which included large petruding masks that resembled something out of The Lion King, the musical.

  • Sergio Davila

Taking his queue from 1930s immigrants, Davila delivered an easy collection full of classic sportswear pieces such as cardigans, henleys, bermudas, and casual trousers. The collection was largely for men, but we did enjoy the few women’s looks, in particular the cut-off trousers. At retail, we can definitely see this doing well, as the clothes have a familiar feeling to them, with the thick gauge cardigans and thin, gauzy henleys taking center stage.

  • Melani von Alexandria

Unfamiliar with this designer, we weren’t sure what to expect. Sometimes skipping a meal or a power hour of writing is difficult to rationalize when a show is off-site, but in this case, we were glad we took the risk! The collection was as lovely, sweet, and sophisticated as the young designer, who impressed us with her tailoring skills and cohesive collection that left us wanting to see more. Loose, flowing silhouettes channeled a modernized 1920s vibe in soft neutral colors such as cream, peach, taupe, and midnight. Her dresses were by far our favorite, although she also proved to us that she nows how to cut a mean pant.

  • Gottex

We’re happy to go on the record saying that all the years we’ve seen a Gottex show, we’ve yet to be let down. Just when you think that nothing new can be added to the swimwear category, Gottex goes and does something completely refreshing. Everything from nautical motifs to classic Grecian paraded down the runway, and Gottex really knows how to smoothly group and transition the show from one theme to the next. Interesting halter one-pieces caught our eye, and we are really starting to believe that the one-piece is the new bikini. We loved the completely oversized anchors and interlocking rings, and applaud the company for revisiting the early 1990s via neon swimear. We also saw loads of cream-colored swimwear with such an amazing drape that it would take the most skilled and delicte of hands to execute. Last of all, we must thank Gottex for avoiding the monokini — we couldn’t bare to see another one of those on the beach next summer!

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